How to Tell Your Body Shape
A visual starting point for the five families. It is not a measurement and it is not a calculator — it is a way to narrow the options before you read the plate that fits.
The four questions
Stand in front of a mirror in light clothing, or use a straight-on photo. Look at the overall line first, then narrow it with the four questions below. If an answer is close, follow both branches; you are probably near a boundary.
1. Bust versus hip
| What you see | Go to |
|---|---|
| Bust and hip look close in width | Question 2 (waist) |
| Hip looks wider than the bust and shoulders | Pear family |
| Bust or shoulders look wider than the hip | Question 4 (bust lead) |
2. Waist definition
| What you see | Go to |
|---|---|
| The waist is clearly smaller than the bust and hip, with a defined indent on both sides | Hourglass family |
| The waist is a gentle indent; bust, waist and hip look similar | Rectangle |
| The middle is the fullest part, and the waist is close to or wider than the hip | Apple family |
3. The high-hip flare (for a pear lead)
Put your hands on the top of your hip bones. Look at the line just below the waist. If it flares out sharply and then continues to the fullest hip, the pattern is closer to a spoon. If the line from waist to hip is gentler, it is closer to a triangle. Without a tape measure, this is the least reliable of the four questions; treat it as a hint.
4. The bust lead (for an upper-body lead)
| What you see | Go to |
|---|---|
| Bust leads the hip, and the waist is clearly smaller than the bust | Top hourglass |
| Bust or shoulders lead the hip, but the waist is not dramatically smaller than the bust | Inverted triangle |
Why the mirror is not a measurement
A mirror or a photo shows a silhouette, not four circumferences. Camera angle, lens, posture, clothing and the pose change the impression. A 2021 study of 1,679 3D scans found that a change of about 1 cm in tape placement moved up to 40% of women into a different FFIT category. The visual tree is a starting point; if the answer matters for a fit decision, use a tape measure and a method that publishes its formulas.
What if I am between two?
That is common near a boundary. Read both plates and use the suggestions that match the part of the body the garment actually touches. If the waist seam is the deciding feature, use the family whose waist position matches; if the hip is the deciding feature, use the family whose hip line matches. A label is a range, not a verdict.
How-to-tell questions
Can I tell my body type from a photo?
A straight-on photo can help you see the overall line, but it is not a measurement. Camera angle, lens, posture and clothing change the impression. Use the decision tree as a starting point, then measure if you want a numeric answer.
What if my upper and lower body look similar?
That points toward rectangle or hourglass, depending on the waist. If your bust and hips are close and your waist is clearly smaller, hourglass is the closer family; if the waist is a gentler indent, rectangle is closer.
Why do I get a different answer from a calculator?
The calculator may use a different formula version or a different measurement definition. A 2021 study found that a 1 cm change in tape placement moved up to 40% of women into a different category. If the two answers are adjacent shapes, you are probably near a boundary.
Sources
- Simmons, Istook & Devarajan (2004). Simmons, K., Istook, C. L., & Devarajan, P. (2004). Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) for Apparel. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4(1). https://www.ergo-eg.com/uploads/books/devarajan_full_106_04%20(3).pdf
- Lee, Istook, Nam & Park (2007). Lee, J. Y., Istook, C. L., Nam, Y. J., & Park, S. M. (2007). Comparison of body shape between USA and Korean women. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 19(5), 374–391.
- Sokolowski & Bettencourt (2020). Sokolowski, S. L., & Bettencourt, C. (2020). Modification of the Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) Formulas to Include Plus Size Bodies. Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2020. DOI 10.15221/20.22. https://doi.org/10.15221/20.22
- Parker, Hayes, Brownbridge & Gill (2021). Parker, C. J., Hayes, S. G., Brownbridge, K., & Gill, S. (2021). Assessing the female figure identification technique’s reliability as a body shape classification system. Ergonomics, 64(8), 1035–1051. DOI 10.1080/00140139.2021.1902572. https://doi.org/10.1080/00140139.2021.1902572
- Istook / SizeUSA distribution (2005). North Carolina State University (2005). Fashion designers ignoring shapes of women’s bodies. Newswise / NC State news release; Newcomb, B., & Istook, C. (2006). Using SizeUSA to improve apparel fit. https://www.newswise.com/articles/fashion-designers-ignoring-shapes-of-womens-bodies