Apple vs Rectangle

The one difference that matters

Compare the waist with the hip. In a rectangle, the waist is smaller than the hip, usually by a moderate amount: the bust and hip are within 3.6 inches, and the waist sits within 9 inches of the bust and 10 inches of the hips. In an apple, the waist is close to or larger than the hip.

How to tell in a mirror

• If your waist is the fullest of the three measurements, start with apple.
• If your bust, waist and hip look similar but the waist is still smaller than the hip, start with rectangle.
• If your middle is full but your waist is clearly smaller than your hip, you may be a rectangle with a fuller middle, not an apple.
• If your waist is larger than the hip but not the bust, oval is the closer apple sub-shape; if it is larger than both, diamond.

Dressing differences

Apple: use vertical lines — open fronts, long necklines, seams — and choose the bust and shoulder fit first. The middle can be skimmed rather than cinched. Longline jackets and open cardigans often work well.

Rectangle: start with a choice. If you want a straight line, use boxy cuts, column dresses and clean seams. If you want a defined waist, use a belt, a wrap, a peplum or a seam. Both are valid; the dress does not have to create a waist to be “right”.

Both can wear A-line dresses. On an apple, the A-line usually falls from below the bust or from a soft waist; on a rectangle, it can fall from the natural waist or from a drop waist.

Common mislabels

• Rectangle read as apple. A fuller middle can look like an apple; the waist-to-hip difference is the tie-breaker.
• Apple read as rectangle. A defined waist can make an apple look rectangular in a photo. If the waist is not smaller than the hip, rectangle is not the closer label.
• Apple read as “no shape”. The 2020 revision gives the pattern two names, oval and diamond. It is a specific measurement pattern, not an absence of one.

Apple vs rectangle questions

What is the difference between apple and rectangle?

In a rectangle, the waist sits between the bust and the hips: it is smaller than both. In an apple, the waist is close to or larger than the hips. The 2020 FFIT revision splits the apple family into oval (waist larger than hips but not the bust) and diamond (waist larger than both).

Can a rectangle have a fuller middle?

Yes. A rectangle with more volume through the middle can look apple-like in a photo. The measurement that decides is the waist-to-hip relationship: if the waist is smaller than the hips, rectangle is closer; if it is close to or larger, apple is closer.

Do apple and rectangle need different dress shapes?

They often do. Apple dressing tends to use vertical lines, open necklines and a skim through the middle. Rectangle dressing starts with a choice: keep a straight line or add a waist signal. Both can wear A-line and wrap dresses; the difference is where the dress needs ease.

Sources

1. Simmons, Istook & Devarajan (2004). Simmons, K., Istook, C. L., & Devarajan, P. (2004). Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) for Apparel. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4(1). https://www.ergo-eg.com/uploads/books/devarajan_full_106_04%20(3).pdf
2. Lee, Istook, Nam & Park (2007). Lee, J. Y., Istook, C. L., Nam, Y. J., & Park, S. M. (2007). Comparison of body shape between USA and Korean women. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 19(5), 374–391.
3. Sokolowski & Bettencourt (2020). Sokolowski, S. L., & Bettencourt, C. (2020). Modification of the Female Figure Identification Technique (FFIT) Formulas to Include Plus Size Bodies. Proceedings of 3DBODY.TECH 2020. DOI 10.15221/20.22. https://doi.org/10.15221/20.22
4. Parker, Hayes, Brownbridge & Gill (2021). Parker, C. J., Hayes, S. G., Brownbridge, K., & Gill, S. (2021). Assessing the female figure identification technique’s reliability as a body shape classification system. Ergonomics, 64(8), 1035–1051. DOI 10.1080/00140139.2021.1902572. https://doi.org/10.1080/00140139.2021.1902572
5. Istook / SizeUSA distribution (2005). North Carolina State University (2005). Fashion designers ignoring shapes of women’s bodies. Newswise / NC State news release; Newcomb, B., & Istook, C. (2006). Using SizeUSA to improve apparel fit. https://www.newswise.com/articles/fashion-designers-ignoring-shapes-of-womens-bodies